As we saw in our previous article, once found the right shoulder width of your costume, care must be taken to the general shape of the shoulder. There are many lines of his shoulders, and different fillings ... but these last two criteria, we can isolate three main forms of shoulders. These three forms are called natural shoulders, shoulders "Rollino Con," and padded shoulders, or shoulder.
1. The natural shoulder, with little or no padding
1.1 Definition
This is the preferred form of shoulder tailors. Indeed, for a natural shoulder is fully realized, it must be assembled by hand.
The padding is thin shoulders (Lightly padded) or nonexistent (unpadded, in English). This cut of the shoulders, not broader than that of its carrier, does not hide the natural shape of the shoulders, but the highlights.
This cut, as Mr. Anthogiavanni qualife ( in this article ) as "Neapolitan" is called "Spalla Camicia" (shoulder shirt) when there is no padding, and "Roman" or "English", when the pad is fine.
1.2 For whom?
It is particularly recommended for muscular men, or have broad shoulders or round. Indeed, in the words of Nicholas Antogiavanni, in " The Suit ", about men muscled shoulders and cuts," All That padding for what is Meant to provide statement THEY Already Possess, and adding to it is from subtantial Their Worse Than rudundant ", meaning roughly" all padding (shoulder) is done to provide what they already have (shoulder), and this added volume would only worsen things. " Of course, being very elongated silhouettes in fashion in recent years, a fine man who will not increase his size, but highlight its part filiform, also opt for this type of shoulders.
Beware, if you have a problem with a collarbone, shoulders or asymmetry ... not a good tailor, can this type of cut that out.
Where?
In a bespoke tailor, as KITON. In PAP in "Arthur & Fox."
2. Shoulders rolled, Roped (UK), or "Con Rollino" (IT)
2.1 Definition
The top of the sleeve (or head of the stick "sleevehead" as the English say) than the shoulder line a few millimeters, as if it was wrapped around a rope. Like the shoulder "Spella Camica" This shoulder is also a Neapolitan shoulder.
2.2 For whom?
In the spirit a little old school, the shoulder has a shape that inspires and rigorous classicism ... while earning a whatever of intriguing ... This type of shoulder, may also be suitable for young people who do not feel quite ready to wear double-breasted suit ... a first step.
3. Shoulders with epaulettes or padded
3.1 Definition
They are simply padded shoulders. They have the advantage of being easier to assemble than the shoulders mentioned above. Cheaper, they are found in most brands of ready to wear low and mid range.
3.2 For whom?
Good for two types of physical The physical triangle whose shoulder width is less than the width of the size. The thin and very little physical muscular who want to earn a little personable.
Not recommended for both types of physical The physical fairly small: broadening the shoulders, will give an impression of crushing of the silhouette. The physical small heads: the shoulders will widen even smaller head ... watch out!
In all cases, these shoulders do not deform, and hide all the defects of our shoulders ... but they make us lose the next "natural" costume.
To go further ...
Books: The Suit, Nicholas Antogiavanni. The Handbook of Style, Esquire. The umo Vogue Fashion Guide Spring / Summer 2010 Sites: Ask Andy About Clothes, http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/Tutorials/AntongiavanniNeopolitanShoulder.htm
How to choose a costume? -2.4-Shoulders (Part 2/2)
This article is the eleventh in a series: Find the first article
As we saw in our previous article, once found the right shoulder width of your costume, care must be taken to the general shape of the shoulder.
There are many lines of his shoulders, and different fillings ... but these last two criteria, we can isolate three main forms of shoulders.
These three forms are called natural shoulders, shoulders "Rollino Con," and padded shoulders, or shoulder.
1. The natural shoulder, with little or no padding
1.1 Definition
This is the preferred form of shoulder tailors.
Indeed, for a natural shoulder is fully realized, it must be assembled by hand.
The padding is thin shoulders (Lightly padded) or nonexistent (unpadded, in English).
This cut of the shoulders, not broader than that of its carrier, does not hide the natural shape of the shoulders, but the highlights.
This cut, as Mr. Anthogiavanni qualife ( in this article ) as "Neapolitan" is called "Spalla Camicia" (shoulder shirt) when there is no padding,
and "Roman" or "English", when the pad is fine.
1.2 For whom?
It is particularly recommended for muscular men, or have broad shoulders or round.
Indeed, in the words of Nicholas Antogiavanni, in " The Suit ", about men muscled shoulders and cuts," All That padding for what is Meant to provide statement THEY Already Possess, and adding to it is from subtantial Their Worse Than rudundant ", meaning roughly" all padding (shoulder) is done to provide what they already have (shoulder), and this added volume would only worsen things. "
Of course, being very elongated silhouettes in fashion in recent years, a fine man who will not increase his size, but highlight its part filiform, also opt for this type of shoulders.
Beware, if you have a problem with a collarbone, shoulders or asymmetry ... not a good tailor, can this type of cut that out.
Where?
In a bespoke tailor, as KITON.
In PAP in "Arthur & Fox."
2. Shoulders rolled, Roped (UK), or "Con Rollino" (IT)
2.1 Definition
The top of the sleeve (or head of the stick "sleevehead" as the English say) than the shoulder line a few millimeters, as if it was wrapped around a rope.
Like the shoulder "Spella Camica" This shoulder is also a Neapolitan shoulder.
2.2 For whom?
In the spirit a little old school, the shoulder has a shape that inspires and rigorous classicism ... while earning a whatever of intriguing ...
This type of shoulder, may also be suitable for young people who do not feel quite ready to wear double-breasted suit ... a first step.
3. Shoulders with epaulettes or padded
3.1 Definition
They are simply padded shoulders.
They have the advantage of being easier to assemble than the shoulders mentioned above.
Cheaper, they are found in most brands of ready to wear low and mid range.
3.2 For whom?
Good for two types of physical
The physical triangle whose shoulder width is less than the width of the size.
The thin and very little physical muscular who want to earn a little personable.
Not recommended for both types of physical
The physical fairly small: broadening the shoulders, will give an impression of crushing of the silhouette.
The physical small heads: the shoulders will widen even smaller head ... watch out!
In all cases, these shoulders do not deform, and hide all the defects of our shoulders ... but they make us lose the next "natural" costume.
To go further ...
Books:
The Suit, Nicholas Antogiavanni.
The Handbook of Style, Esquire.
The umo Vogue Fashion Guide Spring / Summer 2010
Sites:
Ask Andy About Clothes, http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/Tutorials/AntongiavanniNeopolitanShoulder.htm
Let's be smart, let us be elegant!
Following the record
choose costumes , con Rollino , shoulders , padded , spalla camica
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