How to choose a costume? The-2.5-collar, lapels.


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In a neck dress, we can distinguish three parts:
- The neck, which is the part that surrounds the neck and must stay in contact with the shirt collar,
- The flap, the part that is folded behind the neck,
- The setback, the two parties to the front of the jacket folded outwards, giving the form a "V" opening.

There are several types of collars, ... more or less extravagant, more precisely, there are several types of back of neck.
According to their shape, we can associate them held more or less stringent.

1. The classic collar:

1.1 The notched collar, or collar shirts

col_crante_zegna
The notched collar, or tailor the type of collar is the most common on costumes with a single row of buttons (2 or 3 buttons).
This is the type of collar business man.

1.2 The collar pique

  [Click image to enlarge] 

colpique_zegna
The collar was designed to pique double-breasted jackets (with two rows of buttons).
When the edge is adorned with silk, the collar of choice for tuxedos.
We also find this type of collar on costumes in a row of buttons. This gives them some style.
A pass in spades on suits two or three buttons is one of the most complicated cuts to achieve a tailor. (Http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000052.html)

2. The passes coming out of the ordinary

2.1 The shawl collar

  [Click image to enlarge] 

col_chale2
The shawl collar, which is almost like a shawl around his neck, is derived from an informal evening dress of the Victorian era. Moreover, today, this type of collar is exclusively for tuxedo jackets.
It is strongly recommended to buy a suit with shawl collar intend to wear to the office.

3. The extravagant collars

Thierry Mugler 3.1 The cervix (neck inverted)

  [Click image to enlarge] 

g_thierrymugler
The neck reversed, created by Thierry Mugler.
Original, but relatively quiet, it may be similar to pique collar.

3.2 The collar (crew neck without flaps or lapels), and mandarin collar

  [Click image to enlarge] 

	mugler-thierry

 

In 1985 Jack Lang, Minister of Culture, creates a "scandal" by bringing to the Chamber of Deputies in Paris, a crew neck Mugler suit without a tie.

col_mao_ok
The mandarin collar is a collar some months and can have up button at the neck. He is very focused in China. Moreover, the CEO of the clothing chain Shanghai Tang, Raphael le Masne de Chermont, launched the " Mandarin Collar Society "Club carriers mandarin collar .

Note that in Japan a few years ago from a growing enthusiasm for the "style" dandy (http://stylesalvage.blogspot.com/2009/01/japanese-dandyism.html)

Here, an inventory of most types of collars or lapels you will find on our jackets and costumes ... choose knowingly!

Let's be smart, let's be smart, be responsive to the collar and lapels of our jackets.

Following the record

This entry was posted on Monday, May 17, 2010 and is filed under the category How to choose a costume? , Costumes , Dress chic . You can follow any comments related to this article to you abonnat flus RSS 2.0 feed .
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  1. # 1 by werd at September 18, 2010

    Hello and congratulations for your blog!

    The tailored collar and neck bites are not they also called cervical collar Italian and English?
    It seemed to me to read that qque hand.

    Long live (in) Human (s)-chic (s)

  2. # 2 by Jeff at January 26, 2011

    Hello,

    Correction for Mao collar (officer) there is absolutely no door in China. Except shirt by waiters in restaurants or kung fu.

    So avoid the fault of taste, especially if you are meeting with Chinese (credibility).

    • # 3 by The Man chic at January 29, 2011

      Hi Jeff,
      Thank you for your comment.
      I must have a picture of Lang Lang in mind when I wrote those lines.

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