In the article ... A costume alterations -1 - General , we énumérions list of various adjustments to be made to your costume.
Why a hem on the sleeves?
We may come back later on the pants ... but later .. because it seems clear that the pants must be shortened by a "hem" .... However, it seems much less obvious to have to touch up his sleeves!
Well gentlemen, keep your property .. just as we do not all have the same length leg, or even the waist, we have not all the same arm length!
Prerequisites
All the subtlety of well-trimmed sleeves are based on a pre-requisite: your shirt!
So you need a shirt neatly trimmed. (I invite you to read a shirt, what is the right sleeve length? ).
Things not to do
1 - The sleeves are too long
The photos below illustrate what not to do ... and yet what we see too much!
Click images to enlarge.
The first is a real bad taste, which happens often in men less than 1.70, which do not pay attention to detail.
It is clear that the handle reaches the level of the fold between the thumb and forefinger ... we seem to have an arm and finger.
The second is also a bad taste ... ... unfortunately common in men who are between 1m70 and 1m80.
There you can barely see the hand ... it seems that we wear a shirt ...
2 - short sleeves
No pictures for now, but this morning I met a man with a jacket with sleeves left shows all the wrists of his shirt ...
If your shirt is discovered more than 3cm, the effect is opposite to that expected.
Why Are the sleeves so long?
And yes, the "creators" of ready to wear, must satisfy the greatest number of customers, and apart from the brands that offer several handle lengths (TM Lewin, for the more affordable), the brands are positioned on a handle of long enough to go to the person of 1m90. Beyond that, it becomes more difficult to dress in the PAP (ready to wear), so you have to call on stores like Kapel which includes brands (including Ralph Lauren) that adorn the greatest of us.
What is the proper length to suit my sleeve?
The photos below show a good sleeve length:
the shirt must exceed 0.5 to 1.5 cm in relaxed arm position along the body.
Moving (arms folded or extended), the shirt will exceed naturally a bit more (1 to 3cm).
Why is it stylish to have the sleeves of dress to the right length?
First, because it shows that you do not wear short-sleeved shirt, and reassure people about the fact that they will not have to be confronted with hairy forearms!
Then, because it highlights your wrist. Long considered a part of the erotic female body, the wrist makes the elegant arms (like the neck to the head).
Finally, height of elegance, color wrist will come remember the color of your shirt (at least of his collar).
Let's be smart, let's be smart, pay attention to the length of the sleeves of our costumes!
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# 1 by Arnaud at May 13, 2010
Good morning.
I have two costumes and I 1m70. However, the first reveals the sleeves of the shirt, as recommended here.
But the second, him, falls into the category "lack of taste-sleeves too long for 1m70/80" (second image).
But I had insisted to the store to have the length that reveals the shirt.
In my opinion, the row of four buttons in the bottom of the sleeve does not shorten further, reaching the last button, after editing, 1 cm from the edge.
Is what I'm wrong?
# 2 by Chic The Man at May 14, 2010
Hello Arnaud,
The alterations made by the stores are often made faster and cheaper ...
Depending on the price of your suit two options available to you.
1 - to shorten the sleeves by the shoulders. This practice long and delicate costs between 100 and 200 €.
2 - how raccoucir sleeves from below by removing the fourth button (which would be the need early on in your case). Cost between 10 and 20 €.
It remains for you to find a (an) good (not) retoucher (honest)!
# 3 by Arnaud at May 14, 2010
Hello and thank you for your response.
About the second solution, this is not a problem of having only three buttons instead of 4?
# 4 by The Man chic at May 14, 2010
Hello Arnaud,
Although the number of buttons at the sleeve of a jacket, the more rependu or 4 (the number of buttons that are the tailors of Saville Row Londoner), this number may actually be from 1 to 5:
The cuffs of suit jackets can have:
- 1 buttons: for casual summer jacket (1930) or eccentric costumes (designers like Roberto Cavali);
- 2 buttons (quite apart) for some English town costumes (the 1970s);
- 3 buttons: the costumes for a little less "formal" or tweed jackets;
- 4 buttons: the standard number, and business suits for most of the costumes;
- 5 buttons: The costumes very modern .. a little too extravagant.
So not only have three buttons instead of four, not shock. At best it will give the impression that you have defeated the first button, at worst it will give one side a little less strict with your costume.
In any case, you better have three buttons that are too long sleeves.
Tip: If the buttons are functional (if have can actually do and undo), it is better to shorten the sleeve by the top (shoulder).
If they are not, ask your retoucher, then decide if you remove the fourth button.
# 5 by Arnaud at May 14, 2010
All very interesting! Thank you for sharing all this information! The buttons are not functional (hopefully ...).
One more question: is the practice does create an additional buttonhole?
# 6 by Arnaud at May 16, 2010
I mean to replace one that has been removed ...
# 7 by The Man chic at May 16, 2010
Hello Arnaud,
You can sew a buttonhole new and add a button, after removing the liner.
But this practice is not common.
Ask your retoucher and let us share your experience.
# 8 by Arnaud at August 7, 2010
Hello,
I have finally made shorter sleeves of the costume in question. Unexpectedly, instead of cutting, the retoucher has closed two buttonholes (2 because buttons were originally very much? - Near the edge), making them virtually invisible, and created two new ones.
# 9 by Arnaud at August 8, 2010
When I said "instead of cutting," I mean "instead of just cutting and leaving three buttons" in short, it does not confine itself to shorten but has seen fit to shift two buttonholes.
# 10 by Mekki at September 7, 2010
You say that the shirt should not be worn under a jacket. Okay, this is the rule to be chic, but in summer, in a linen jacket, when it's hot, is it shocking (or at least inelegant) to wear a shirt, also in linen?
# 11 by Man chic at September 7, 2010
Hello Mekki,
Indeed, you can try ... This is certainly less shocking than halos of sweat that would happen to the wrists.
But even if wearing linen, one can imagine rolling up the sleeves of his jacket (open buttonholes recommended) then return over the long sleeves of his shirt ... Effect relaxation guaranteed, but the linen will be hard to remove wrinkles.
# 12 by Sylvain at December 26, 2010
Hello,
What should the length of the sleeves of the coat that is worn over the jacket?
Thank you!
# 13 by Man chic at December 27, 2010
Hello Sylvain,
Some love the jacket completely covers the wrist, in order to properly protect the shirt, and this view is defended perfectly.
Personally, just as it can be elegant "to wear" a pocket in his suit coat, he may bring up an elegant little wrist of your shirt.
So there are two possible lengths: Longer than the suit jacket, but shorter than the shirt, or longer than the shirt.
In all cases, these cold weather, the glove will hide the wrist of the shirt, and slip into the wrist of the mantle!
Happy Christmas and New Year!
# 14 by Bernadette Laplante at January 13, 2011
if I want to go back a handle to the seam happens
on the shoulder .... do I cut the sleeve before I cut the
width of the shoulder?
# 15 by Man chic at January 13, 2011
Hello Bernadette,
I apologize, but is not suit, I can not answer your question. However, I can recommend this site authored by apiéceur: http://stiffcollar.wordpress.com/
# 16 by Augusta at June 17, 2011
to shorten the sleeves with a jacket lapel, the cut Epeule? I do not know how to do it. that little guide me. Thank you in advance