This article is the 2nd in a series: Find the first article
Although the general idea of how to choose the fabric of our costumes can be rapidly expressed, there is actually a lot to know to make the right choice.
Because the fabric is the first support of your costume!
Of course, the cut is paramount ...
but even if it would be fabulous, we never would carry costume paper.
Once these articles read, you choose your costumes knowing what you buy.
This section is cut it into three sections:
- Generalities about the tissues (which you are reading),
- Tissues to avoid
- Wool and the weavers!
The plan announced, back on topic ... or at least their wool!
What is the matter of my costume?
Click images to enlarge
Although generally a label is in the left inside pocket of your suit.
There, in addition to cleaning tips, you will find the composition.
The label must always display at least two information:
- The exterior of the suit: the fabric of which we speak;
- Lining: the soft material that may sound like silk but is very often 100% viscose.
What fabrics are available?
Natural fabrics
Natural fabrics have the advantage of removing all sweat easily see to be thermo-regulators.
Tailors only work with natural fabrics.
Note: it may be that the tissues contain a little less than 1% elastane to gain flexibility.
- Flax: a plant, it is worn only during the summer or all year in warm countries. Very light, the great advantage of easily releasing perspiration .. but unfortunately wrinkle easily.
Note that they give a look a little more "sport" a fine wool suit that will be more refined. - Cotton: plant, it bears in spring, summer and early fall. Like flax it allows perspiration to evacuate easily, but still a little warmer.
- The thick wool (tweed): animal (sheep), wool thick (photos) are commonly used for jackets called "sport" (not in a whole jacket / pant suit-type).
They were worn in the fall, winter or during the cool evenings. - Wool flannels: Fabric originally wool-looking fluffy and soft to the touch, the flannel is made by crushing. The most commonly used for costumes is the gray flannel. Providing warmth and softness it goes in winter.
- The Fine wool (Super 100'S, 120'S, 150'S etc..): Animal, the tissue "four seasons" par excellence. A suit in a fine wool perhaps, by its color , used all year.
IF you must first buy a costume, choose the fine wool.
An entire article will be devoted to fine wools. - Wool blended with wool "noble": eg cashmere, wool / mohair, wool / alpaca
This mixture usually changes the look of wool by making or choice or simultaneously silkier, thicker, softer ...
Synthetic fabrics
They have the advantage of not wrinkling, and be very inexpensive.
Unfortunately ... they are seen as a kind of plastic, they do not help to wick away perspiration.
So if we have few resources and little that we sweat, they can be a choice.
By cons, if we tend to have heavy perspiration, or to wear a suit in summer it is better to try to save a little for a 100% wool suit.
- The polyester: linear macromolecules, having in the chain at least 85% by weight of a diol ester and terephthalic acid
- The polyviscose: Polyester (generally within 60%) + viscose (40%). It is the vast majority of suits that can be found in stores such as Zara.
Let's be smart, let's be smart, know the fabric of our costumes!
You can leave a comment , or trackback from your site.


















# 1 by jozzy-online at March 1, 2010
Thank you for an interesting blog
# 2 by Lionel at July 8, 2010
Hello,
You do not speak the mixture wool / silk, yet widespread in the lines "couture" (costumes from 2000 euros) some Italian brands (Gianni Versace Couture zb)
This mixture is it quality? or is it a tissue aging badly?
# 3 by Yann at January 23, 2012
Hello,
A tailor offers me a suit's super wool 150-70% cashmere and 30%.
According to your article, or a mixture is possible, a fine wool .... how can he sell me a fine wool super 150's but mixed with cashmere??
Thank you in advance!
Yann
# 4 by Traztaroot at February 5, 2012
Specify a few points. Firstly, the qualification of Super XXX's does not mean the fineness of the fabric, but the hair of the animal, which is then used to produce the yarn, which is then woven fabric to reach the final. In short, there is a path between the two, and the fineness of the fiber initial does not indicate how the smoothness of the final fabric! The titration Super XXX's is actually a technical data that informs the customer very little on the fabric of his costume, except on the point of strength: the more the fibers are fine, they are more fragile, and the fabric will wear out more quickly.
The real thing that should guide the choice of fabric should be its weight, ie the weight of the fabric. This is what will determine if the fabric is thicker or thinner, and therefore, ultimately more or less hot. But that's a given that you barely know, at least in PAP. In our latitudes, a tissue of about 300-320g per meter will be perfect much of the year. A weight that does not technically require an extremely fine fiber, and for which there are excellent 80's and Super 100's.
In short, the story of Super XXX's became a marketing tool, an indicator totally misguided, that only serves to make the customer buy tissues both more expensive and fragile, but not better.
Yann Finally, to answer your question, 70% wool fabric's Super 150's 30% cashmere and is made up of 70% wool woven from fibers listed Super 150's (and therefore a diameter of 16 microns) the remaining 30% cashmere.
PS: is it a tailor, or a seller of semi-industrial measurement? As most "real" tailors offer little light woolens, plus a high titer (Super 130's, 150's), because they are missing tissues difficult to work keeping the traditional way.
# 5 by Yann at March 20, 2012
Hello Traztaroot (lol)
Too bad, I have not seen your response earlier ... But I watched every day for a long time
So: what is a seller who custom-made, according to him, he buys her fabric made in Italy and make the costume ... China is taking action before issuing commands. Classes you in which category, seller or tailor-made industrial half?
The costume I did do, I intend to put only once ... so it does not take long, it will not be so serious!
Thank you for taking the time to respond.