This article is the fifth in a series: Find the first article
The weavers, drapers
click on image to enlarge
After learning that:
matter is one of the most important elements to make a nice suit;
what are the finest materials, natural and synthetic;
what are the inexpensive materials that we should try to avoid;
and what is a fabric "super 100's";
Here is the result of a column on how to choose his costume, and the most prestigious investors.
Definition
An investor is one who has worked as a loom, ie, to the canvas or other fabrics or crossing on a loom weaving the son they must be composed.
We will consider the wool weavers.
Weavers know why?
Make fabric is a profession.
And as there are brands of clothing, there are brands of tissue.
Generally, buying a suit cut from a cloth from one of the weavers that we will discuss together is a guarantee of quality.
Not only because these tissues are more expensive than tissue lambda, which shows the desire of the cutter (the brand) to provide a quality suit, but mostly because the tissues have been developed with some expertise.
Before buying a suit or a jacket, look inside of the jacket.
Generally, if it is made from a quality raw material, this is the mark of fabric sewn into the jacket.
Either under the brand (usually the left lapel of the jacket), or on the back facing it.
If Nothing is sewn, you can ask your tailor or dealer you specify what type (super 100, mixing etc. ..) of fabric is it, and especially what brand is the fabric!
If you give the name of a weaver, you can ask to see a sample of the fabric with the brand name (the name of the weaver) next.
We are informed, but what beautiful fabrics?
Tissue English, Irish
Holland & Sherry
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In existence for over 170 years, Holland & Sherry always provides the largest and most tailors luxury brands.
For history is in 1836, Stephen George Holland and Sherry Frederic began to be wool merchants in London.
The safe bet tissue English.
More on http://www.hollandandsherry.com
Harrison of Edinburgh
http://www.lbd-harrisons.com/harrisons_collection.html
Tissues French
Dormeuil
Created in 1842 by Jules Dormeuil, Dormeuil began importing English cloth, before creating their own fabrics.
What more is a must ... Dormeuil tissues French!
(Note: the costumes Dormeuil PAP, whose fabrics are beautiful, have impeccable cuts, but fairly straight. Forget the PAP Dormeuil if you are looking for a costume very curved).
More on http://www.dormeuil.com/
Tissues Belgians
Scabal
Founded in 1938 in Brussels by Otto Hertz, Scabal was originally a merchant and supplier of fabrics.
In 1938, there were only 6 Scabal employees and today employs approximately 600 people worldwide.
http://www.scabal.com/
Tissues Italians
Loro Piana
Specializing in wool with cashmere, Loro Piana fabrics created among the finest in the world.
Associated with Hackett, they create the fabric especially for the British brand.
Note that Loro Piana is not in costume ready to wear. They make sweaters and casual wear .. but the costumes are only made to order!
More on http://www.loropiana.com/
Zegna
Zegna .. undoubtedly one of the best brands of Italian fabric.
Through various marks 'Ermenegildo Zegna' and 'Z Zegna' offers Zegna fabrics ready to wear, but also tailor-made service with its "Made to Measure."
More info on http://aw.zegna.com/sumisura/?lang=en/
Cerruti
Cerruti, who before being a ready to wear is a weaver.
Apart from the brand Cerruti, many other brands of PAP, in their high-end, will provide at Cerruti: eg Hugo Boss, Defursac, Jodhpur ...
More on http://www.lanificiocerruti.com/
The price of fabric by the yard
Those are beautiful fabrics ... but what is their price?
For a classic girth, it takes between 3.5 and 4 meters of fabric for a tailored suit.
The price of the fabric can vary from 50 Euros to 250 Euros per meter ... but it can reach the Euro 1000 per meter for fabrics rarest!
Let's be smart, let's be smart, being attentive to the tissues of our costumes!
You can leave a comment , or trackback from your site.
# 1 by Captain cave at March 24, 2010
Beware, some clothiers are recognized as they are among the largest producers by volume. If they are able to manufacture quality fabrics remarkable, it may also have also a low-end production. Their label is not a guarantee of quality. Moreover, it is not uncommon for stores trying to say the costumes made by others from tissues of these clothiers for costumes of brands they are not!
# 2 by Benoit at 15 September 2010
Hello,
I have carefully read all the articles published.
I've learned a lot ...
So I visited various places in Paris to find good deals.
Among the brands mentioned in this article, namely Holland & Sherry Harrison of Edinburgh, Dormeuil, Scabal, Loro Piana, Zegna, Cerruti, I have crossed some brands offering 100% wool Cerruti between 320 and 350 euros.
Other brands of fabrics that I could pass on their part, are ranges of prices much higher. I have come across shops Dormeuil and Loro Piana Hackett I think.
Does this mean that Cerruti was the worst of trademarks?
Have you already purchased this fabric? What it gives?
Young graduated from business school, I began my career soon. I am therefore tempted by a navy blue two button super 120 fabrics Cerruti overview to 329 euros instead of 559. It is a kind of warehouse stockpiles.
Thank you in advance for your answers,
# 3 by The Man chic at September 16, 2010
Hello Benedict,
Among the fabrics Cerruti there is excellent, good and less good.
To be included in the price of the tissue there is also the film, or the number of kilometers of cloth that will be created to be sold at various retailers.
Then the price of the costume will vary depending on the care to make its making, and a little known brand while the increase of 30%.
Cerruti provided many houses which DeFursac, Boss, etc ...
Besides all the Cerruti suits are made from their own tissues, and they are worth seeing (I do not know if the store reopened at 27 rue Royale).
If you are interested in learning more about fabrics, you can stroll one morning market Sait Pierre in the 18th arr.
You will come across all sorts of trouble.
You can also go to a bespoke tailor and asked him what he thinks of Cerruti fabrics.
In your case, it is a first suit, it will come more ...
It should make you feel comfortable in it, you do not be afraid of damaging it, and that, without being proud, you do not be ashamed to wear it.
Check all the same that you have the claw tissue sewn inside the jacket, and be careful ... I have already touched on the marsh costumes supposedly super thick rough and 150 as that of glass wool!
In any case, feel free to send us your purchase, send us photos and qqls if you're happy, give your store address.
Good luck,
Man-chic.
# 4 by Patrice at November 3, 2010
Hello, stylish man.
I am a bit in the same case as active young Benedict, who seeks todo attention to what he wears aware that the importance lies in the detail.
after buying a few years ago a suit Delaveine (sorry but my parents étaients rather stingy) which gave me almost an air of rather grotesque sapper, I finally bought my first suit only.
This is a dark blue wool Danyberd, bought € 240 (including editing of course). For information on prices is due to a production vêtment in Turkey.
I do not remember seeing any section in your site about this brand, and I would like you to give me your opinion.
Indeed it "sell" an image of quality garment highlighting the weavers as Loro Piana, or after reading your article I realize that:
1) I did not trace the weaver of my suit, and that
2) I can not remember the thickness of my costume.Il already folds after two ports, I was worried then reassured me and told me that it is wool, so 'good' folds (they would demonstrate the quality of the product).
3) More generally, should I use steam to maintain this suit wool, or because of my inexperience, look ahead to acquire one or two full polyester, before I authorize the purchase and maintenance of best costumes.
Ideally, I think a suit should by definition be "premium" as much if not be casual, or simply dressed (shirt + sweater a good> bad costume)
Thank you in advance for answering my questions learner's stylish man.
# 5 by The Man chic at November 5, 2010
Hello Patrice,
I do not know the brand you mention. But do not worry, the important thing is that you are satisfied with your purchase. Creases as the costume is not a sign of good or poor quality of the fabric, but its thickness, its mixture, and weaving.
In any case, I recommend the wool suits, even if they are not perfect, rather than polyviscose.
For maintenance, opinions differ: some are pressing against the abyss that the fabric on the other against the steam baths which can damage the costumes sold in ready to wear (as shoulders and torso are made of materials with iron- that can wrinkle moisture).
However you can always brush your suit,
Give him a few shots with your steam iron coat hanger on it so that, in prennant care not to touch the
Tissue, and once or twice a year, bring it to the cleaners.
Thank you for your encouragement,
Let's let's elegant chic,
Man-chic
# 6 by Dexter at April 7, 2011
What do you think the PAP Smalto, couture line and not by smalto?
# 7 by The Man chic at April 20, 2011
Hello Dexter,
I do not know well Smalto in PAP.
This must obviously be better bill than the line "by smalto".
I will visit their shop to make you a return.
# 8 by Dexter at April 21, 2011
Info for just a luxury ... a dry cleaner dry cleaner should I say. Only the costumes that are worth (entoilés say ... but the question is up for debate ...): http://www.pouyanne-teinturier.fr/
# 9 by Gt maryjane at May 8, 2011
Cooool thank you for giving me this information!! :) =)
# 10 by Jovani at May 23, 2011
I do not know how to thank you for all the lessons that you bring to your readers.
For my part, your site is in my favorites and I do not bother to read it as often as possible to learn even more about the clothes.
For lovers of elegance and good taste I am.
I beseech you for a reason. Indeed, I try to get me some tissues Cerutti (the most affordable for my finances) to make me make my bespoke suits. However it has been months since I seek in vain for a fabric store which sells them and this at an affordable price.
Could you please help me by giving me some addresses if you have? (Because on their site I can not order)
Thank you for your attention.
# 11 by Man chic at May 31, 2011
Hello Giovani, with a few addresses in England, I did not address in Paris where the fabric is "cheap".
Any time you can get to market St. Peter to St. Peter's Square (subway Antwerp) ... Even if you do not find your happiness, touring these colorful drapes worth seeing.
Keep us informed of your findings!
# 12 by Pasha at September 14, 2011
Hello dear friend,
Do you have addresses of merchants of fabric with a wide choice in Paris? In London?
# 13 by Viktor Tatran at June 10, 2011
Hello,
I would like to know if you know Stark and Sons, and if it is a quality of tailor?
Cordially.
Viktor
# 14 by petiteld at December 11, 2011
Hello,
I am looking to buy wool in good / very good quality (with very precise ideas of what I want). I have not been impressed with the fabrics that can be found at the Marché St Pierre, whose wool is limited choice, and are much more oriented furniture or cotton.
Do you have addresses of merchants fabric / cloth manufacturers specialize in fabric for suits and therefore have a wide choice?
Thank you in advance for your return (and congratulations for your very interesting site)!
# 15 by Man chic at December 13, 2011
Hello,
At Scabal (Savile House) you will find fabric on sale for individuals.
Maybe Loro Piana (st honored) has the same initiative.
I think there is a tailor at the beginning of the Avenue de l'Opera in Paris that sell cloth by the meter.
.. but in London you will find more shops specializing in the sale of cloth.
Keep us informed of your findings!
# 16 by PELLERIN at January 4, 2012
Hello, I would first tell you that the tissues are not tissue but Cerruti fabrics of society Lanificio Flli Cerruti at Biella (Italy) company that is not part of society group CERRUTI 1881. I advise you to come to the shop CERRUTI 1881 Royal Street has reopened and you will find a lot of very good quality suits for men chic.
# 17 by Kleone at February 1, 2012
Good evening I saw at Brucefield costumes in Lanificio Cerruti Flli? worth it?
# 18 by traztaroot at February 6, 2012
@ Viktor: Stark & Sons is offering a tailor-made of genuine traditional (largely). A fantastic job.
@ Kleone: F.illi Cerruti is a generalist investor, which produces all kinds of cloth, wool base (or even low-end) to luxury blends. The brand itself can therefore give no indication of what is the fabric.
# 19 by Ground at February 8, 2012
Hello Man Chic
I am looking for a brand to a suit for my wedding.
I would wear a suit very great size, narrow waist, with a quality fabric.
Could you refer me to trademarks please know that I have broad shoulders.
What do you think of Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Zegna, Gucci.
I also thought the measure would address you in paris
I was thinking savile house to opera. What do you think?
Thank you for your help