This article is the fourth in a series: Find the first article
1.The meaning of "super 100's" to "super 200's"!
Is there an objective way to compare the quality of manufacture of a fabric? ... Maybe
The Meaning of the apostrophe s ('s) or "Super s ..."
This means the wool mills fine 100% wool,
or mixtures of wool upper with wool as the alpaca, angora, cashmere, vicuna ...
- The meaning of "100" in "Super 100's"
The figure after the word Super, and before the apostrophe 'S' represents the fineness of the fabric.
One could imagine that this figure represents the number of fibers (sheep hair) that are woven into one square centimeter (cm2). So, the larger the diameter of the fiber, the smaller the fiber is thinner and there are wool fibers in a square inch of fabric. Anyway that's how we might imagine.
In fact, although this is not fake, it's a little less obvious:
this measure, or rating is determined by the IWTO (International Wool Textile Organization, "International Organization of textile and wool").
The diameter of each fiber of wool 80s must measure up to 19.75 microns;
19.25 micron for the 90s;
18.75 for the 100s ... etc.
Then, just remove all 0.5 microns to reach the 10s ... 210s wool, whose fibers are finer than 13.25 microns!
Recall that a micron, or micrometer (microns) is 10 ^ -6 m = 0, = 0 000 001 meter, 001 mm.
The diameter of a fiber of wool 210s so far less than 0.01325 inch!
Suddenly, a Super 100's wool is thicker than a Super 120's;
and a Super 160's wool finer than wool super 140's.
In what is wool made my costume?
Generally, a 100% wool suit, if nothing is specified, the fabric is certainly super 80 or super 90.
Generally, all ready to wear costumes (PAP), which offer the finest wools distinguished by a label inside the jacket.
OR fine wool very fine wool: pros and cons!
| Tissue <100 s (middle - end) | Fabrics> 150's (very late) | |
| Price | Affordable unless the fabric is thin, it is less work, less expensive it is. Generally produced in large quantities, it does not make an unusual fabric. | Dear dear ... see More fabric is thin, more rarely, the more it is worked. Moreover, because the selling price (several thousand euros for a square meter), weavers produce only small amounts, which makes the fabric even rarer, more special. |
| Flexibility, holding & beauty | Plus the fabric is thick it will be less flexible ... and by extension ... any less. | More fabric is thin, it is more flexible, it has a nice outfit, it is more comfortable to wear. |
| The wrinkled | Creases slightly | Little wrinkle much from 150's |
| The strength | Strong enough ... but it depends on the origin. | More fragile, require more attention to maintenance. |
In brief
More tissue will end,
it will be more comfortable to wear,
but, it will be more expensive,
and he will ask for more attention to maintenance.
What is the best choice?
Everything depends on the use you make of it, but the man you recommend a chic wool super 120'S.
In whom can we find suits with fine wools of good quality?
Hackett, who works almost exclusively with one of the largest investors in the world: Loro Piana.
In addition, you will find four seasons Hackett wool to wear your costume throughout the year.
Be wary of that?
Always be wary of costumes that claim super super 150's or 160's and that cost less than 300 Euros ... this equation is impossible.
Go first by clear values (Loro Piana, Zegna, Dormeuil ...), you soak excellent fabrics, then you will see if the fabric is really coveted a super 150's.
In any case, feel free to caress the fabric, to take it between your fingers, at the weigh-in ...
He must please you, because ultimately, the important thing is to feel comfortable in his suit!
Let's be smart, let's be smart, let us be in harmony with our clothes!
Coming soon: An article about the great investors like LoroPiana, to be sure not to go wrong!
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# 1 by Christian at December 30, 2009
After reading this article, I went to Celio in my city to get an idea. After much ... or visco poly ... I came across a super 100's suit: jacket € 139.90 (ref: ccoprems) and pants to go with to € 49.90 (ref: ccuprems).
As Man Chic recommends Celio, I ask the question: does it worth?
Thank you and goodbye
# 2 by The Man chic at January 4, 2010
Hello Christian, and thank you for your encouragement.
At 200 Euros, so do not expect wonders, and without knowing the origin of the fabric, it is difficult to generalize about the quality of costumes.
If you had 600 Euros, I'd recommend a Hackett during sales period, but if you have only 100 or 150 Euros, Celio is a good price / quality ratio.
A study has also been commissioned by the magazine Capital in December 2009 ( read the study ), the cashmere sweaters, and Celio sweater with a € 80 ranks third (13.5 / 20), just ahead of Eric Bompard (13/20 to € 250) and ahead of Zadig et Voltaire (7.5 / 20 for 248 €). This study largely justife my recommendations of mistrust towards the expensive brands in marketing disproportionately.
# 3 by Christian at January 6, 2010
Thank you for your response.
I just saw all resulted in 50% to € 100! Ps although do expect wonders, this is not a big financial risk.
I went to the site of Hackett and I did not know is this topic 'costumes' (two different sections for trousers and jackets).
There are really beautiful things but knowing that I have 'cracked' on the Barbour resulted in 40%, balance my budget is already started ... ...
I'll have to take me to the next otherwise balances.
# 4 by The Man chic at March 29, 2010
Find the perspective of a professional on http://stiffcollar.wordpress.com/2010/03/22/du-choix-de-la-bonne-laine/
# 5 by Dexter at March 9, 2011
Good evening,
Excellent article by J. Scavini indeed: it should also update your article on the super it is relative depending on what is called the son of account (warp or weft). And a super 150's can be woven in ways much more "airy" than super 100's and thereby constitute a tissue with much less material. Anyway great article series that allowed me to begin my sartorial culture and for that I would be eternally grateful to The Man Chic
# 6 by Peter at November 5, 2010
Hello, I want to know what you thought of the costumes of the brand Kooples that says to make his Savile Row suits.
Thank you and goodbye
# 7 by Stephane at November 23, 2011
Bonsoir.Je would also, like Peter, have an opinion on the costumes Kooples.J 'have understood the concept of the universe marketé but I tried a suit and I'm a little amazed. 100% Cotton 100's for about 400 € actuellement.Merci