Why adjust the sleeves length of our suits?
For most of us, it seems obvious that, most of the time, the trousers of a suit have to be adjusted: shortened by a “hem”.
However, it seems much less obvious we also need to adjust the sleeves of our suits!
Well gentlemen… just as we do not all have the same legs length nor the same waist size, Our pair of arms are not the same sizes either (compare to someone else : hopefully your left arm and your right one should be more or less the same size)!
All the subtlety of well-trimmed sleeves based on an essential prerequisite: your shirt!
So you need a well-cut shirt. (I invite you to read
a Shirt, What is the correct shirt sleeve length ? ).
A. FORBIDDEN things
A.1- Too LONG suits sleeves
The pictures below illustrate what not to do … and yet what we see too much!
Above, the suit sleeve is Muuuuuch too long.
This is a real bad taste mistake which often happens with men who are less than the average 1.70m and who does not pay attention to details.
It is clear that if the sleeves ends in the fold between the thumb and forefinger … it just looks like our fingers are directly connected to our arm (with hand in between ).
Above, the sleeve is still too long.
This picture does not illustrate a bad taste mistake, but more a lack of taste, or a lack of attention. Unfortunately this scenario is common for men who are between 1m70 and 1m80.
In this case we hardly perceive the hand and it looks like we are wearing a sweater.
A.2- Too SHORT suits sleeves
No picture now, but this morning I met a man wearing a jacket which sleeves were showing up the entire wrist of his shirt … If your shirt is discovery of more than 3cm, the effect is opposite to what is expected. You will look having a short arm, a suit that is not yours and having incredible long hands.
Why sleeves are they so long?
Because of Ready to wear !
The “creators” of ready to wear suits, must satisfy the greatest number of customers.
And aside from the brands that offer several sleeve lengths (TM Lewin, for the most affordable), brands have decided to put enough length to fit a 1m90 gentleman.
If you are taller than 1m90, it might be difficult to dress in Ready to Wear: you can try shops shops like Kapel which includes brands (Ralph Lauren) that fit the tallest of us.
B. SOLUTION: What is the right length for my sleeve suit?
The pictures below show a good length of sleeve for a suit:
your suit sleeve should expose 0.5 to 1.5 cm of the shirt cuff in arm relaxed position (i.e. along the body).
If you move your arm the suit sleeve might expose a bit more of your shirt cuff (1 to 3cm). Strong>
Why elegant men do wear suit with correct sleeves length?
First, it shows that you do wear a shirt and it reassures people about the fact they will not have to face your hairy fore-arms!
Then, because it highlights your wrist.
Considered for a long time as an erotic part of the female body, the wrist makes the arm elegant (like the neck to the head). Imagine a ballerina dancing swan lake with blocked wrist … the effect would be weird.
Finally, summit of elegance, the shirt cuff color will “recall” the color of your shirt (at least its collar).
Let’s be Chic, let’s be Elegant, let’s pay attention to the sleeves length of our suits!